What is a chain of office or livery collar?
A chain of office, also called a livery collar, is a heavy ceremonial collar worn around the shoulders to show rank, office or membership of an order.
In medieval and Renaissance Europe, these collars were given to nobles, councillors or knights as a visible sign of loyalty and authority.
They usually combined repeating heraldic links with a large central pendant that identified the wearer’s role or allegiance.
Chains of office in medieval and Renaissance portraits
If you look at Flemish and Spanish portraits from the 15th and 16th centuries, you will often see men in black clothing with a bright metal collar on top.
The links may show symbols like fleurs-de-lis, lions, letters or badges, and in the centre there is a larger pendant.
These portraits are some of our best visual sources to understand how chains of office looked and how they were worn: high on the chest, with the pendant centred and clearly visible.
The Golden Fleece and other famous livery collars
One of the most famous examples is the Golden Fleece collar, used by the Order of the Golden Fleece, founded in 1430.
Its links combine flames, flints and other heraldic elements, ending in a pendant shaped like a fleece or ram’s skin.
Other livery collars showed symbols of royal houses, cities or guilds, turning the whole chain into a portable coat of arms.
For modern reenactors, these historical designs are a strong reference when choosing a chain of office for a king, councillor, guild master or judge.
How were chains of office made and worn?
Original chains of office were normally made in gold or silver, sometimes partly enamelled.
They could be very heavy, since weight itself was part of the status message: a light chain would not look or feel important enough.
They were worn over doublets, gowns or robes, usually centred on the chest, and sometimes pinned or lightly stitched to the shoulders to keep them in place during movement.
Chains of office for reenactment and stage today
For historical reenactment, museum events or theatre, a chain of office helps the audience instantly recognise who holds power in a scene.
It works very well for characters such as mayors, judges, magistrates, chancellors, guild masters or leaders of an order.
Because real gold would be impractical and too expensive, modern replicas use brass or zamak with plated or antiqued finishes, keeping the look but reducing the cost.
A good chain of office for reenactment should be visually strong, heavy enough to feel ceremonial, but still wearable for several hours.
Our Amadeo Golden Fleece livery collar
At Renaroque we designed the Amadeo Golden Fleece livery collar as a historical-style chain of office inspired by Renaissance portraits.
It combines square links with coloured cabochons and fleur-de-lis connectors, and ends in a large fleece pendant in antique brass finish.
With a length from 88 cm and a weight of more than 360 g, it feels closer to a real chain of office than to a simple necklace.
The antique brass tone gives it a slightly aged, ceremonial glow that reads very well on stage and in photographs, without the mirror shine of modern costume jewellery.
Who can use a chain of office like this?
A Golden Fleece style livery collar like Amadeo works well for:
· Renaissance and late medieval courtiers and councillors.
· Mayors, magistrates or judges in historical settings.
· Grand masters of orders, guild leaders or high-ranking heralds.
· Cosplay characters based on fantasy kingdoms with European inspiration.
· Theatre, opera and film costumes that need a clear symbol of power.
Practical tips for wearing a chain of office
Because chains of office are heavy, it helps to wear them over structured clothing such as a doublet, surcoat or gown, not over thin shirts.
Fixing the collar lightly at the shoulders with hidden stitches or strong pins prevents it from sliding and keeps the central pendant centred.
During transport, store the collar flat in a box or wrapping so the links do not twist or bend.
Choosing the right chain of office for your character
When choosing a chain of office, think about:
· Status - a king or high councillor can wear a larger, heavier collar than a local official.
· Symbols - fleurs-de-lis, crosses or animals can hint at house, city or order.
· Colour - coloured cabochons help pick up the tones of the clothing or heraldry.
If you want a chain that clearly reads as “Order of the Golden Fleece style” while still being wearable for events, the Amadeo livery collar or Fleur de lis chain of office are a solid choices.
You can find more ceremonial collars in our Chains of Office collection.
