What is the Order of the Golden Fleece?
The Order of the Golden Fleece is one of the most prestigious chivalric orders in Europe. It was founded in 1430 in Bruges by Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, to bind loyal nobles to his court and celebrate his marriage to Isabella of Portugal.
Over time the order passed from the Burgundian dukes to the Habsburgs and later to the Spanish Bourbons, and today it exists in a Spanish branch and an Austrian branch. In every case the Golden Fleece pendant and collar became a visible sign of rank, used in portraits, ceremonies and official occasions.
The Golden Fleece collar and pendant in historical portraits
If you look at portraits from Burgundian and Habsburg courts, you will often see a short collar or heavy chain ending in a small hanging fleece. This is the insignia of the Order of the Golden Fleece.
Traditional collars combine:
· Links shaped like firesteels and flints, sometimes forming a letter B for Burgundy.
· A small sheepskin or fleece pendant hanging in the centre.
Painters show these collars:
· Over armour or rich fabrics in state portraits.
· Together with other orders and medals in formal dress.
· Repeated across several generations to signal dynastic continuity.
The fleece pendant is usually shown with a clear outline and strong texture so it can be recognised even at a distance. That visual impact is why it still works well today as the centre of a chain of office or livery collar.
Chains of office, livery collars and the Golden Fleece
A chain of office or livery collar is a heavy chain or collar worn over the shoulders and chest to show office or rank. In many Golden Fleece examples, the pendant is the focal point of a larger collar:
· The collar rests on the shoulders, carrying most of the weight.
· The fleece hangs in the middle of the chest.
· The whole set reads as "office" and "authority" without words.
Modern reenactors, LARP players and costume designers still use this logic: a strong collar plus a clear central pendant to signal high status, command or membership in an order.
How to wear Golden Fleece inspired regalia today
You do not need to be a knight of the real order to use a Golden Fleece inspired design. A historical style pendant and chain of office can work in many settings:
· Historical reenactment as a symbol of rank for a noble, officer or courtier.
· Renaissance fairs as part of a Habsburg, Burgundian or royal character.
· Theatre and film to show authority and office on stage or on screen.
· Fantasy LARP as a clear visual cue for high-status or magical orders.
Practical tips:
· Use a strong chain or leather cord that can carry the weight of the pendant.
· Let the pendant sit in the centre of the chest, not too low on the torso.
· Keep other jewelry simple so the fleece remains the focus.
· Match the metal tone (brass or gold) with buttons, buckles or trim on your costume.
Some people will recognise the Golden Fleece at once. Others will just see a powerful, unusual symbol and ask about it, which is often exactly what you want.
Our Golden Fleece pieces - pendant and Amadeo chain of office
At Renaroque we work with historically inspired replicas, not official regalia of the modern order. For the Golden Fleece (also known as the Toison d’Or in French and Toisón de Oro in Spanish), we offer two pieces that are designed to work together:
· A Golden Fleece pendant replica, cast in solid zamak with either brass tone or 18k gold plated finish, fully sculpted on both sides.
· The "Amadeo" Golden Fleece livery collar, a ceremonial chain of office built from fleur de lis connectors and coloured cabochons, with a central Golden Fleece pendant.
Used together they create a strong Golden Fleece inspired set for reenactment, stage and collectors of historical style regalia. You can also wear the pendant alone with your own chain or cord if you prefer a lighter look.
Brass tone vs 18k gold plated finish
Both the pendant and the Amadeo collar share the same design, but the finish changes the mood of the set:
· Brass tone / softer, more aged look, suitable for battle-worn or long-used regalia.
· 18k gold plated / brighter and more ceremonial, suitable for high nobility, royal characters and formal scenes.
Think about the role you want to portray:
· For a seasoned commander, older noble or travelling court, brass tone often feels more believable.
· For a king, prince, grand master or high ecclesiastical role, 18k gold plated fits better.
Who are Golden Fleece pieces for?
Golden Fleece inspired jewelry is a good fit for:
· Historical reenactors who portray Burgundian, Habsburg or early modern noble characters.
· LARP and fantasy players who need a clear, readable symbol of rank.
· Collectors of royal orders, regalia and heraldic pendants.
· Costume designers who need a strong centrepiece for theatre, film or TV wardrobes.
· Anyone who likes historically grounded jewelry with a clear story and strong presence.
Where to see our Golden Fleece designs
If you want to explore this style of regalia, you can start here:
· The Golden Fleece pendant replica - a separate pendant you can combine with your own chain or cord.
· The Amadeo Golden Fleece livery collar - a full chain of office with central fleece pendant for high-rank characters and ceremonial roles.
Both pieces are handmade in small batches in Spain, designed to balance historical inspiration and practical use for reenactment, events and collections.
